December 17th, 2008: I stepped off a plane to the hazy dawn of Lima International Airport.  By saving up my '08 vacation time and using most of '09's, I had secured myself five weeks to tromp around Peru.  Sleepy, disoriented, and with only a paltry grasp of Spanish, I started my trip in the time-honored tradition of getting ripped off by a taxi driver.  My destination was the neighborhood called Miraflores, shown above.